The Springs Resort and Spa
The Springs resort and spa in Pagosa Springs
Experience 23 natural soaking tubs of varying temperatures (89-110 degrees), perched among mineral rock formations and along a singing river in southern Colorado’s Pagosa Springs.
The five-hour drive, via the towns of Bailey, Del Norte and Saguache, toward the snow-capped San Juans, takes in weathered farmsteads and lodge-pole gates. Stop at the Coney Island hot dog stand in Bailey or the Organic Peddler Peace of Art Cafe at Del Norte. Afterward head for a comfortable deluxe room at the Springs Resort and Spa (www.pagosahotsprings.com). The total deluxe room cost is $220-260, depending on the season.
Fall and winter are the seasons for the lowest rates, while summer at this 7,500-foot-high location is when things go into full swing. The well-appointed rooms have comfy beds, plenty of storage, a refrigerator and a great heating system. Notice the clothesline for swimsuits and herbal potions for after-soak showers. Visitors will be glad of that polar bear robe in their closets; air can be brisk strolling from one mineral pool to another. The pools are available to resort guests at all hours.
The five newest “18 and over” jetted pools are comfortably warm to hot. They feature heated towel racks, a Roman shower and waterfalls. There’s a large freshwater swimming pool purified by salt tablets. Water flows from the natural mother-spring through each tub and into a large, decorative receiving pond full of goldfish that live year-round in its accommodating warmth. The hot tubs are drained and power-washed three times a week.
Part of this experience is the Springs Spa and Salon featuring at least three varieties of facials: the Eminence (vegetable and fruit based), the Yonka (featuring rosemary and lavender) and the Cha’e hypoallergenic variety. The staff consists of a dozen masseurs and estheticians.
For the Pagosa Stone massage, a heated pack is placed on the back while legs are anointed with holly oil. The rubdown is done with smooth, toasty stones. Heated oils perfume the air with pine, while otherworldly music accompanies and golden candles flicker. Results? Sore muscles are stretched, the body is detoxified and lactic acid is released.
The resort suggests packages featuring skiing at Wolf Creek, Angel Fire and other New Mexico/Colorado areas, horseback riding, or a tour of the local Rocky Mountain Wildlife Park. There’s also effortless entertainment in the boutiques and restaurants in town.
For breakfast and lunch, Victoria’s Parlor (274 Pagosa St.) is inviting and costs around $15. Architecture-lovers might explore the tiny historic block surrounding it before descending on Victoria’s perfection menu and “I’m home” ambience.
The antiques and artisan products of Victoria’s Reign Gift Shop spill over from one wing of the restaurant. Exquisite carved eggs, reminiscent of Faberge, and made by Pagosa Springs resident Harvey Clemens, are available here.
Continue shopping at Main Street Antiques, 438B Pagosa St. It’s a cooperative, assuring bargains. Connoisseurs will spot sought-after objects, like the shimmering Noritake Lustreware tea set we noticed there.
Lantern Dancer in the River Center boasts a tremendous trove of southwestern jewelry and features David Yurman rings made of silver and semi-precious stones at low prices.
A remarkable choice for dinner is JJ’s Riverwalk Restaurant, 356 East Highway 160. Our Sunday evening featured a talented blues duo. The Thai salad is gourmet Nirvana. You can even order a half-salad, and gourmet salads and entrees are available for less than $20. There are tasty soups and breads; also featured are pasta, “hand cut” steaks and “Hawaii fresh” fish. Decor is sleek, original and spacious, taking its keynote from exposed roof trusses.
Early arrivals can view the sun-splashed San Juan River from the restaurant’s deck, a prelude to the scenic drive back to Boulder.
